Days 4 & 5: Two countries in two days

We woke up dark and early on our fourth day in South America because we made the brilliant decision to fly at 6 AM from Santiago to Buenos Aires. This meant waking up at 3 AM to ensure we got to the airport with enough time to check in and check our bags. As some of you know, South America isn't always known for its efficiency, so this was a good plan. We made it to the plane about 30 minutes before takeoff so all was well!

This is what it looks like when you're at the airport at 4am. And this is what it looks like when you're glad you made it to the plabe. And this is what it looks like when there is zero leg room.

Except of course that we were exhausted. Upon landing in Buenos Aires, we waited in a looooooong line after collecting our bags to put them back through a scanner. The only questions posed to us was what kind of aerosol cans Mari had. The answer was 4: 3 high powered sprays with deet, and hair spray. 

We then had to find cash because only cash was accepted for cars or taxis and we're finally on our way! We arrived in San Telmo at the apartment we were staying at, and let's just say, the start was far from promising. The apartment was nice, despite the handiness of the hot water, but the streets were dead. And I do mean, dead. Empty. Nothing open. We didn't take this as a good sign but all the reviews of the Airbnb were positive so, we figured okay, all good. Let's drop our stuff off and find some food. Because of course, it was almost noon!

Things then started to look up, we lost our hanger (bad mood from being hungry) and began to see some of the sights. We found Juan Domingo Perón, La Casa Rosado, La Playa de Mayo, toured Teatro Colon the Robber Baron Opera House, saw the Obelisk. All in all, a solid first day! 

Juan Domingo Peron! We felt like it was necessary to emulate his touchdown pose (Roll Tide). We also stumbled upon this tree which looked like it could be a person. 

Our first glumpses of the Plaza de Mayo. 

This is San Martin, I don't know what he is famous for. And then we have the Pink House (according to Maps) but it's more commonly known as La Casa Rosada--leading to a confusing moment between me and Mari when i was like, we can also do the Pink House! Not knowing they were one and the same since everything else on the map was in Spanish.. whoops. La Casa Rosada is the presidential palace in Argentina.

This Plaza is especially recognizeable as it's where grandmothers search for their grandchildren, who were taken and given to affluent families who were supportive of the military dictatorship of the 1970s. The children were taken because the government took their parents who are commonly known as "The Disappeared". Very interesting history, and touches on some of what we learned at the Human Rights Museum in Santiago.

Metropolitan Cathedral. The original home of Pope Francis.

Some more views from the plaza.

After the Plaza, we meandered over to the obelisk! Loved the BA sign as well, made for a great picture!

And we can see 'singing' Evita in the background at te Obelisk. And we also have a ridiculous good caramel latte. The little old man wasn't happy with us initially for just ordering a latter, but how can you stay mad at us when we're so jovial? :)

Next was our tour of Teatro Colon. I don't have any pictures of the building itself as it was hard to get one, and honestly the inside is much more impressive. The theatre is one of the best known "Rubber Baron" Opera Houses. Here we have some of the costumes the performers would wear.

The opening entry way. The mosiac floor was hand installed. Can you imagine the back problems that created? Mari and I both discussed we'd just lay on our belly and slide along with our progress.

Lots of gold, but fun fact: as repairs have been made, they've used less and less gold. And some of the marble is imitation marble, because who has the funding for all of it to be real marble. Priorities. Regardless, it was truly stunning.

Inside the actual theatre, we had fun learning about the history--although Mari definitely learned more since our tour was completely in Spanish. I caught some things, but mostly just nodded and laughed when everyone else did. You know, as you do.

Also spotted on our tour: an imitation of the Eiffel Tower. Our question was, who goes ti Buenos Aires and buys an Eiffel Tower? And then lugs it around on a tour of the Opera House? Okay, maybe it was two questions, but we were really confused...

We topped it off by getting empanadas (you might see this as a trend) and bread for the morning. And buying tickets on the Pope-inspired ferry to Montevideo. Since we had another early morning, it was a relatively early evening. 

So for Saturday, we woke up around 5:30 (progressively better right?) and headed to the buquebus terminal. Minus waiting 15 minutes for a metro, it went without issue and we got into our seats on the ferry and promptly passed out. There's something about the rocking motion of a boat that puts you to sleep like you're a baby. 

My friend Ryan, who works in Montevideo, met us on arrival and then showed us around the city. It was a cute city, not very large, but does have some beaches along the river that I'm sure would be pretty when it's not pouring rain. Unfortunately there was a lot of rain. But it didn't stop us!

We went to the main square, saw the hero who lost the war (because how many places have a statue commemorating a loser?), got a glimpse of the presidential palace, then meandered on over to Puerto de Mercado for lunch. It was a fantastic lunch, all the meats (braceros!) and a delicious Uruguayan concoction called Medio y Medio--a half and half of moscato and Sauvignon blanc. Actually very good. 

The inside of the Buquebus lobby was actually pretty fabulous. But they reuined the fancy effect by requesting we all wear these shoe covers. (okay, so maybe it wasn't a request but a demand)

But we managed to make them look fabulous right?

We brought some bread, cheese, and salami. Name the movie: "Gouda's my favorite"

In the middle of the plaza, we have the war hero who didn't win the war, the very modern presidential palace(?), and what used to be the tallest building in South America but is now shorter than the building across the plaza.

We took turns taking photos, and here's Ryan with me in the middle! Our faithful and true guide.

We walked along some pretty streets and eventually made it to Puerto de Mercado--where Ryan introduced us to some typical Uruguayan fare.

We had grilled cheese, chorizo, and not pictured, a bracero which is a little grill full of all the meats. It was meant for two people but... I'm not sure how the three of us were supposed to finish it, much less two people.

This is a Submarino--warm milk with some chocolate syrup at the bottom that you swirl to create something like hot chocolate. It was just what we needed to warm up on the cold and rainy day!

We then meandered some more, got some hot chocolate and Ryan told us we had seen Uruguay. Pretty legit, and knocked off another country in about 5 hours! 

Our return to Burnos Aires also provided a nice nap on the ferry and then we upgraded ourselves into Ryan's hotel room (Ryan is the best, if you haven't figured this out) in the Palermo neighborhood. We figured we touched it in the sketchy part of San Telmo so why not try acting in a different neighborhood if Rtan was offering? All about a diversity of experiences right? :)

We then deviated from South American food and ate at a place called Tijuana. It was, you guessed it, pretty yummy Mexican food. Complete with a welcome sampling of the house margarita upon arrival. I will say, their spice level leaves a little to be desired but the decor and overall taste made up for that. And the bean dip. Oh my goodness the bean dip: a mixture of refried beans and black beans, it was heaven in a bowl.

After that we got recommendations for a speakeasy called Virginia Browns. You enter into what looks like a cafe, and ask for Victoria Browns and then the open the brick wall and viola, you've entered a very lovely and chic bar. Complete with cocktails that are served in a paper bag of smoke (not even kidding). We figured that was a great way to end the night, especially after two early mornings in a row, so at 1ish, we wrapped it up and walked back to the hotel.

 Because why not eat Mexican food? The place was super cool and definitely on theme.

We got a free tasting of margaritas, which was clearly a great selling tool as each of us then proceeded to get margaritas.

This bean dip! Maybe my favorite part of the meal. Honestly. Then we had carne enchiladas that were all the meat we needed, a chicken quesadilla, and the most delicious of the mains, a vegetable burrito (bottom left). We left fat and happy.

Next it was Victoria Brown. The lights were dimmed so the pictures are a bit dark but it had all the looks of a great speakeasy, including great cocktails.

Although we were all convinced these drinks weren't ours since it came with food. But turns out the greasy bag was Ryan's drink! It apparently came in a bag full of smoke, but the drink was ice cold. Still trying to figure this one out and the semantics of it. 

Group photo in the darkness! A great end to a great day! And so many thanks to Ryan for showing us around Montevideo and being a companion for the rest of our time in Buenos Aires!